Aberlady Bay Nature Reseve (& our local submarines)

There is a small car park at the start of this walk. It can be found just off the coastal road between Aberlady and Gullane, you can park directly facing the wetlands so its a popular spot, not just for walkers but also for sedentary birdwatchers and people who just fancy eating their lunch with a view. (Also me occasionally, in my camper with the tailgate open catching a wee minute of peace for a coffee and decompressing on my way home from a busy nightshift)! You’ll know the spot because it is impossible to miss the long wooden bridge that crosses the marsh from the car park. Walking over it feels like a somewhat treacherous activity- the wood is aging and starting to feel spongy in places- I wouldn’t trust a decisive two footed jump in walking boots, put it that way! It is also extremely possible for a toddler to trip and fall right under the handrail- it is about an 8-10ft drop so how much attention you pay to that depends on how much you like your toddler I suppose... Also worth noting at this point that dogs are strictly not allowed within the nature reserve area, so leave the furries at home for this one, and if you want to see the infamous submarines, you must check your tide times in advance- these will only be accessible at the lowest tides. Finally, there is a small toilet block at the carpark too which we have recently found to be basic but clean.

Crossing the bridge to the nature reserve

Crossing the bridge, take note of the very happy little duckies paddling below you within an interwoven criss-cross network of marshy, silt islands and silver, shimmery pools- I am sure that the twitchers among you will be able to tell me what kind of rare breeds you might be fortunate enough to observe here if you stand here a while, but I am no expert, I am just happy to watch as they dive for snacks and shake silvery beads from iridescent feathers. There really is something special about observing natures creatures in their own habitat, it actually blows my mind that they just wander among us (or visa versa in reality!)- so different in so many ways, but each as entitled as the other to exist in some kind of harmony on our impossibly unlikely planet.

If you do survive the bridge crossing, there is an information board welcoming you and detailing the particularly interesting nature ‘stuff’ that you should look out for on your walk. The path from here is easily followed through grassland. A golf course lies directly to the right and creates an interesting ying and yang effect- to your left, long natural grasses, sandy wetlands, bushes brimming with berries... to your right a fence and behind it only perfectly manicured lawns and neatly carved sand filled bunkers- I know personally that I walk on the right side of the fence.

The path continues through open ground for a while, it is even underfoot and flat, not a strenuous hike. Soon a pond will emerge from behind some bushes on the left, a couple of large, concrete tank blocks are also strewn randomly around the area, just to remind you that you are still in East Lothian. Watch out for tiny froggy babies crossing the path, my boys delighted in spotting and handling a couple of them here, and continue to follow the path as it passes through a long, winding tunnel formed from wizened, mossy branches of ancient shrubs that in time have intertwined their topmost branches and been carefully clipped back to allow you to pass through. It is welcome shade on a hot day, or shelter from the rain- the rest of the walk is very open. The tunnel twist to the right and then back again before opening back up to dry grassy plains, which slowly become sandier under your feet as you approach the coast. The golf course remains right next to you on the right and there is an electric-fenced field to the left containing a wonderfully rugged herd of horned sheep- don't bother attempting to have a chat with them, they were mortified at the prospect of being approached by me (antisocial wee beggers!), I did still managed to snap them for a quick pic though!

At this point the path splits in a couple of directions, there is another random tank block in front of you and signpost which directs you left towards a massive impressive sandune visible in the far distance- that is your destination so follow the path that takes you straight there. By the time you reach the base of the dune, you will be walking a path of fine, gold sand. To your left lies a kind of estuary area, large coastal sand plains that feed into marshlands at the car park. As the tide comes in or out shallow pools and streams fill previously unnoticeable channels through the wigglyy, wave-marked sand. On a bright day these catch the sun and become mirrors, and with the headland marking the far end of Aberlady village visible in the distance, it is a lovely tranquil spot. It is possible to turn off towards this way by hanging left before reaching the dune, but the route is not obvious, though there are some cute, handmade wooden arrows marking safe passage across the salt flats if you do choose this option. We came back this way, and found ourselves dodging rabbit holes left, right and centre- I am certain this place must be a hive of bouncy, fluffy-butt-ed activity at dusk.

Random tank-block at the point at which the path turns left

Signposts at the salt flats- if you choose to avoid the sand dune climb

If you have it in you, however, I strongly recommend tackling the great dune! The views from the top are simply stunning- huge wide expanses of unspoilt golden sand await you on the other side. From this vantage point cast your eyes over to the left and (assuming that you checked your tide times and the tide is fully out!) way out towards the sea line you should be able to just make out two dark shapes in the sand- these are the infamous Aberlady submarines. It’s a fair trek over the tide-marked sand, past broken sea defences and eerie natural driftwood sculptures hand-crafted by the sea. It is worth the walk. Be mindful that there is sinking sand in the area, and that you can also quite easily become cut off by the tide- keep your wits about you and you will be fine, the only sinking sand I have encountered so far was right up close, touching distance from one of the submarines and it was easy enough to avoid. I have however, been forced to make a bit of a dash through ankle-deep water as the tide comes in though- do expect to get your feet wet in the name of exploring!

The beach from the base of the dunes, looking left towards the subs- they are so far away you can barely even spot them!

A google search will tell you all about these awesomely quirky shipwrecks. They are WW2 four-man ‘midget’ submarines that were tethered at Aberlady Bay once they were retired from active military service- you can also still see the concrete block that anchored them where they now lie. From this tethered position they were used for ‘target practice’ by other ships as part of training exercises. Despite this brutal fate, they remain in surprisingly decent nick- you can clearly see the metal frame of each, and when you visit them in person it is absolutely mind-blowing to consider 4 full grown men fitting inside each one- claustrophobic would be an understatement! Exploring these wrecks was just an incredible experience, I do not think their existence is particularly well-known, and for me, this adds to the appeal. Who’d have thought we had such a unique, historical treat right on our doorstep?!

There they are though (small child for scale)!

Once you have played roulette with the tide for long enough, head back towards the beach that you came from- there is a clear ‘corner’ were the estuary opens up, head straight to the corner and look out for a signpost here- it will direct you back to the main path via the ‘kingdom of rabbits’ mentioned above. Once you reach the path, head back to the car park the same way that you came and allow yourself at least a couple of hours for the full walk.

Papple Steading: Papple Wood and the Whittinghame Water

Pressmennan Wood (Part 2- The Longer Circuit)