Smeaton Lake, Preston Mill & Phantasie Doocot, East Linton
Smeaton Lake is a wee hidden gem tucked away behind a small wooden gate off the main driveway to Smeaton Nursery in East Linton. As you drive in you might spot it on your left just as the nursery building comes into view, directly across from the wooden horsey jumps to your right. You can park in the nursery car park (important to note that we are talking plants, and cream scones here- as opposed to screaming tiny people- and actually, it is a brilliant one if you are horticulturally inclined!).
The path can be muddy in places but it is relatively flat, easy to follow and winds through trees and shrubs in a big loop around the lake, ending right back where you started. The place has the feel of a botanical gardens, there are plants from all around the world and these are labelled. Giant firs invite you to hug trunks that you have no hope of enveloping, and everywhere, the foliage is punctuated with multi-colours of gigantic rhododendrons that appear to thrive in East Lothians salty air. The lake is fairly small but incredibly peaceful, a plethora of reeds puncture the still, mirrored surface and you find yourself fully enclosed by nature. At the far end of the lake large stone cliffs rise up to your right, a natural enclosure to this lush little haven of green. There are a couple of small make-shift stone benches along the route so you can sit and enjoy the peace.
It is not a long walk around the lake, you can do the loop in 20mins or so if you stick to the path, and it is also dog-friendly, though they must be kept on a lead. You might be able to get a hard-core all terrain buggy around, but I would personally recommend a carrier for very little ones. Once you complete the circuit head back out of the gate and then head right, hugging the fence, past the big tree with low branches which, much to the delight of my kids, was found to be providing shelter to a whole herd of sheep on our last visit! Continue down past the equally endearing heard of Higland Coos- there are some unusal-ly colored little fellows in the mix here, we always stop and say hi- it's basically impossible to resist a photo op with a Highland Coo!
Once you are past the cow field you will notice a wee entrance into the wooded area on the right. Sneak into here and its like you have instantly snuck into another world! We made the visit on a lush summers day and the floor was a carpet of bluebells and toadstools- it was just like a fairytale! Follow the paths in the general direction of East Linton, past the enclosed Dog-walking wood, keeping more towards the right so as to avoid re-emerging on the road, and you will eventually find yourself at the edge of a big farmers field with lovely views of Prestonkirk Church and East Linton. We chose for some unknown reason to run down the grassy path skirting the field towards the church, at full pelt, stopping only to admire the beautiful blossom on the ancient Rowan trees on the left. I think you could just as easily stay in the woods and walk all the way down through there if you would rather keep the fairytale alive. If you do run through the field, there is a tiny makeshift gap in a mossy stone wall just before you reach the church- blink and you would miss it!- Scramble through here back into the bluebells and the path splits a couple of different ways. We followed the left fork, although I don’t suppose it matters too much as long at you keep wandering down you will eventually end up at the main road.
‘Running’ down the side of this field!
Take a right here and you will find yourself in East Linton Village but on our adventure today you want to cross the road and head left, just 50 yards or so until you spot the sign for Preston Mill on the right. Head down the driveway and prepare to fall in love with the stunningly quirky Preston Mill! There is nowhere quite like this gorgeous little place, it has to be seen to be believed. There is a little visitors centre and I would highly recommend the guided tour if you have the time, the internal runnings of the mill have all been restored and it really is a fascinating and fun little place!
You will notice that beyond the mill are just the most beautiful wildflower meadows. Give in that desire you will certainly have to frolic through the flowers, and pick yourself handfuls of dandelions and comfrey as you head towards, and over the little wooden bridge in front of you Continue to follow the marked path to the tarmac’d track and follow that to reach another quirky little structure- Phantasie Doocot! There is a little information board telling you more about this funky pigeon mansion and although it is closed and locked, you can peer in through the windows (basically at 100+ years of pigeon poop!). It’s a nice wee spot!
This is the last ‘attraction’ of our walk today so feel free to turn around and head back the way you have come, taking a moment of course, to enjoy the working water wheel at the back of the mill (as featured in the hit TV series Outlander in which a nearly naked Sam Heughan was seen to be washing his clothes!)… But be warned, if you do turn back now, you will miss out on arguably the best bit of the walk- a cake and coffee pit-stop at the fabulous Bostock Bakery, so I highly recommend that you continue to follow the road past the Doocot for another kilometer or so as it winds around a farm and out the other side emerging onto a busy main road directly across from the infamous Bostock. The almond croissants here are literally to die for, and my coffee-snob husband thinks they do the best flat-whites in East Lothian- high praise indeed!!
Heading back from the bakery- past the fam buildings
This is one of the longer walks for the full team of kiddos and dogs so a refreshment-break was very welcome, particularly on a roasting hot summers day! To get back to the car, we simply re-traced our steps to Preston Mill and hung out in the meadow here whilst Hubs ran solo onwards to fetch the car and pick us up from there... not all heroes wear capes!
