Innerwick Castle, Innerwick

This absolute gem can be found just inland from Dunbar, almost adjacent to Torness power station. The best place to park is a tiny hamlet called Crowhill (a quick google maps search should get you directions). There is an old derelict farm here with a row of occupied farm cottages, but also plenty of space to park off a road without obviously inconveniencing anyone. Please do be courteous of the locals and leave nothing but footprints!

‘View-from-the-Van’ at the derelict farm

After parking, walk back down to the road and cross over. There is a lovely country cottage here and if you turn right and walk 50 yards or so you will find that right next to it is a tiny gate leading into the woodland behind. It is a sneaky wee entrance with a little wooden stile, and I would be willing to bet that you never noticed it when you drove in!

Innerwick Castle is but a short walk through the woods from here… After crossing the stile follow the main path down the steps and then as it heads to the right. You can’t really get lost here- look out for a small wooden sign pointing you towards the castle and stay on the main track. Take a moment or two to appreciate the calm woodland glen you have now found yourself in... In summer it is a full of wildflowers, pink, white, blue, the smell of wild garlic dominating the air, but as the seasons change, fungi pop up all over and you can smell dank earth, moss and trees. Listen carefully you will not only be able to hear the babbling brook below, but also a choir of birdsong, so varied and intense that on my last visit I was inspired to download the (highly recommended by me!) app ‘Merlin’ which records and identifies birds from their song- on that occasion I recorded Eurasion Blackcap, Song thrush, Common chifchaff and Common chaffinch. Do be aware that the paths here are narrow and muddy, and a steep gorge drops off to your left hand side, boots are highly recommended.

The first glimpse of the castle (note the sign and path to the left- head up there!)

After half a km or so, the castle will appear in front of you in the form of a large red, dilapidated tower. A sign on your left announces that you have arrived at your destination, and a second sign warns of dangerous conditions and unsafe masonry. I am confident that I wont be the first or last to ignore this no-entry sign and proceed with caution instead, up the steep windy path on the left. You will be able to see right into the tall tower at this point- it is pretty poor condition but gives you a sense of the impressive height that this once-formidable ruin would have had. Most of the castle is still hidden at this point, but I assure you- the best is yet to come!

Scramble up this path and you will find yourself in an elevated position with a view out over the glen ahead, on the left is a small entrance to a stone tunnel. Go through it, I dare you, you will not be disappointed! The tunnel leads right into the heart of the castle ruins. There are a few caverns, rooms and turrets to explore, all in various states of ruin and now beautifully entwined with the nature slowly claiming them... but the piece-de-resistance is an incredible stone arch that miraculously still stands after hundreds of years exposed to the elements. It is truly stunning and sets this castle apart from others in the area.

Do be careful exploring this area, there are a number of sheer drops as it becomes unavoidably clear that the castle stands defensively on a cliff edge overlooking a huge gorge. I first came here with hubs and a baby in a backpack, and I later bought my Mum to share the wonder... I have however, not come back with my older kids... and it is not often I deem somewhere too unsafe for them to visit! Make of that what you will but please, please take care.

Once you have throroughly explored this enchanting place, re-trace your steps back to the tunnel entrance and down the path next to the tower. Rejoin the main path and this time follow it round to the back of the castle for a wildy different viewpoint of the ruins from below. This area is pretty thick with undergrowth (nettles and brambles so best to avoid shorts!) but you can just-about see where people have been sneaking around the castle in an attempt to do a full loop around back to the path... well I am here to tell you that this is not possible! It is still an interesting walk though as you can basically stand on a ledge, up a cliff, and look up at the castle looming high above you, the sandstone is tactile where it has been worn away through years of wind and it is actually quite a humbling experience... but for the love of God turn back from here and re-trace your steps, I feel certain that gorge has claimed a few victims in its time of sword-wielding scots, it doesn’t need one more with a selfie-stick!

At this point it is advisable to follow the path straight back the way you came (I did say, its only a short walk) although, being the explorer that I am, I have of course followed some of the paths less travelled through the woodland glen. There is a fork off to the right that takes you down closer to the water but it is very overgrown and not well maintained, there are signs of landslips and broken wooden bridges- still good for a wee adventure though if you if you are so inclined! I was sure that this eventually met up with the main path at the stile but I was wrong, so if you do go exploring you are probably going to have to double back on yourself once more.

Head back over the stile and to the car, full to the brim with instagram photos and accomplishment, after discovering one of East Lothian’s truly hidden gems!

Barnes Castle, Athlestaneford

Hopetoun Monument, Haddington